Architecture equipment

Architecture students and professionals use various tools. Certain architectural equipment is essential for day-to-day work, while others have more specialised uses. The choice of tools is a balance between selecting the best tool for the job and personal preference.

Architecture equipment lists

Recommended architectural equipment for students usually includes pens, pencils, rulers, model-making tools, glue, tapes, and paper. Each architecture course varies, but we have compiled a concise list of equipment to support architecture students across different schools. Investing in quality, industry-standard tools makes your tasks more manageable and enhances the quality of your work.

While architecture schools often provide extensive lists of required architecture equipment, experience has taught us that not everything on these lists is essential. Our equipment list isn't exhaustive, but it serves as a foundation, allowing you to expand and specialise as your abilities and interests develop.

We tend not to recommend pre-made packs of architecture equipment from suppliers such as London Graphic Centre, as these are often assembled without considering the best products.

Pencils for architects

You likely already have pencils, but they may differ from the types that architects use. It’s worth considering the quality of a drawn line, as pencil lines are affected by pressure, lead type, and sharpness.

Mechanical pencils have a push-button release for the lead. Lead holders (or clutch pencils) hold 2mm leads and require frequent sharpening. Wood-encased pencils are ‘normal’ pencils; these aren’t used for technical drawings, but you may use them for shading and sketching.

Mechanical pencil

Mechanical pencils use a push-button mechanism to advance the graphite from the end of the pencil and do not require sharpening. The sleeve at the pencil's tip provides clearance from the edge of a ruler or parallel motion. Mechanical pencils accommodate a variety of graphite thicknesses for different drawing applications, including 0.3mm, 0.5mm, 0.7mm, and 1mm.

Our pick:

Pentel - Graphgear 1000 Draughting Pencil - 0.5mm

Non-stop mechanical pencils advance the graphite by twisting the barrel and do not require sharpening. These are often much cheaper and lower in quality.

Our pick:

Paper Mate - Non-Stop Mechanical - HB 0.7mm

Lead holders / clutch pencils

Lead holders or clutch pencils hold 2mm graphite or lead. The push-button action releases the grips holding the lead, allowing you to advance the pencil manually to a length of your choosing. Unlike mechanical pencils, these require sharpening.

Our pick:

Faber-Castell - Tk-9400 Clutch Pencil - HB 2mm

Wooden pencil

Sometimes, you can't beat a tried-and-tested wooden pencil.

Our pick:

Staedtler - Noris School Graphite Pencils - HB

Erasers, rubbers and shields

Erasers with a shield can precisely remove errors or add highlights to a drawing. You can also cut an eraser with a scalpel to create a fine edge.

Our pick:

Staedtler - Mars Plastic Eraser
Linex - Stainless Steel Erasing Shield

Pens for drawing

Architects have strong opinions on pen types, and there are several popular choices for writing and sketching. For technical drawings, you have traditional technical pens and modern fibre-tipped fineliners. We suggest getting a range of pens when first assembling your architectural tools.

Technical drawing pens

Steel-nib drawing pens

Before printers and plotters, designers traditionally used steel-nibbed technical pens to produce orthographic drawings such as plans and sections. Their benefit over conventional pens is that they produce precise line thicknesses with a consistent ink flow without requiring much pressure. rOtring is the brand for traditional technical pens.

Starter sets typically include 0.25mm, 0.35mm, and 0.5mm pens, but a wide range of line weights are available, from 0.18mm to 2mm. These traditional technical pens are complex to learn, rarely used in practice, expensive, and hard to maintain.

This architecture equipment list does not recommend purchasing these traditional steel-nib technical pens unless you're specifically told to or wish to experiment. Instead, modern fibre-tip fineliner technical pens are recommended for most architectural drawings.

Our pick:

rOtring - Isograph Technical Pen Set - 0.25mm, 0.35mm, 0.50mm

Fibre-tip drawing pens

Modern fibre-tipped fineliner technical pens are recommended for most architectural drawings and come in standard sizes such as 0.25mm, 0.35mm, and 0.5mm.

Unfortunately, line thickness is less reliable compared to steel-nibs, especially as they wear out. Ink quality can also vary, so not all pens are equal. Most are disposable and can't be refilled; although they are wasteful, they avoid the messy refilling process.

Convenience has won out, and it’s rare for anyone to question if your line is exactly 0.25mm. For beginners, what does matter is that you use a range of suitable line weights, at least three. An affordable multi-pack of pens such as Staedtler - Pigment Liner is a great start for beginners. The premium but sustainable choice is a Copic - Multiliner SP, which is refillable, and you can replace the nibs.

Our pick:

Copic - Multiliner SP
Sakura - Pigma Micron
Staedtler - Pigment Liner
Pilot - Drawing Pen
Uni-Pin - Drawing Pen

Sketching pens

The choice of sketching pens is down to personal preference – some pens write better in sketchbooks, and others are more suited to tracing paper; some feel smoother, and some dry more quickly. You will soon find your preferred sketching pen.

Rollerball / Fibre pens

Typically regarded as the best general-purpose pens, they come in various colours. You can't go wrong with a Pilot V5 alongside a colourful set of Stabilo Point 88.

Our picks:

Pilot - V5 Rollerball Pen - 0.5 mm
Pilot - V7 Rollerball Pen - 0.7 mm
Stabilo - Point 88

Marker pens

Thicker markers are an essential complement to the thinner rollerballs. Details can be sketched with the rollerball, and outlines can be drawn with markers.

Our picks:

Pentel - Sign Pen S520 Fibre Tip Marker - 1mm
Paper Mate - Flair - 0.7mm

Fountain pens

As anyone who has used a fountain pen knows, there is added maintenance and a slight chance of a leak! Yet, these traditional pens still have a place in some architects' toolkits.

Our pick:

Lamy - Safari Fountain Pen

Drawing board / Drafting board

Drafting boards or drawing boards have adjustable angled stands and a parallel rule (parallel motion) that slides up and down. These can be expensive and large. Some architecture schools will have these available for you to use. Smaller, typically plastic, drawing boards are sold, but we would not recommend these.

We don’t suggest purchasing a drawing board as it’s the most expensive item of architectural equipment on this list. Alternatively, with a T-square, a desk or a sheet of wood can become a drawing board. The horizontal T-square gives you a consistent line from which to draw.

Rulers in architecture

Scale ruler

Scale rulers allow us to accurately convert real-life dimensions to scaled-down measurements that fit on a page. A good scale ruler is essential and will last years if you look after it.

Be sure to get a scale ruler with the appropriate scales you will likely use. Common architectural scales include 1:1, 1:2, 1:5, 1:10, 1:20, 1:50, 1:100, 1:200, 1:500, 1:1000, 1:1250, 1:2500.

In the UK, an excellent way to remember the common scales is to use coins as a reference: 1p, 2p, 5p, 10p, 20p, 50p, £1, etc. For example, many rulers may have 1:25 or 1:30 as a scale, but typically, we would use 1:20 or 1:50 instead.

The curved profile of some scale rulers (such as the Rulex) helps prevent seeping or smudging ink as you work.

Our picks:

Rulex - Verulam Scale Ruler - 300mm
Rulex - Verulam Scale Ruler - 150mm
Helix - Metric Triangular Scale Ruler - 300mm

Never use your scale ruler to cut against it; you will damage the straight edge, and it will no longer function as a drawing tool.

Steel ruler

For cutting paper, card, and other materials, you should use a metal ruler (sometimes called a ‘steel rule’) to cut against. The most practical and commonly used metal ruler is a 300mm metric ruler where the measurements begin from the very edge of the ruler – this is practical when model making as it allows you to measure objects accurately.

Our pick:

Rolson - Stainless Steel Ruler - 300mm

If you are not yet comfortable using a scalpel and metal ruler, you can use a safety ruler. The profile of a safety ruler is designed to protect your fingertips in case the blade slips onto the ruler.

Our pick:

Helix - Non-slip metal safety ruler

Set squares

Set squares are helpful drawing and modelling tools that allow you to generate accurate angles. Typically, most set squares have a 90º corner, with the remaining two corners either 60º and 30º or sometimes 45º and 45º. You can also get adjustable set squares that allow you to generate a variety of angles.

Most set squares are plastic and are used for drawing, but metal versions exist that you can use for cutting against when making a model. Like metal rulers, some set squares have measurement markings starting from the edge.

Our pick:

Staedtler - Mars 21-60 Set Square 20 cm 60/30 Degree
Staedtler - Mars 26-45 Set Square 25 cm 45/45 Degree

T-square

T-squares align to the edge of a drawing board or table and act as a basic parallel motion. They provide a straight line perpendicular to the edge you align it with, so it can generate vertical and horizontal lines.

Try drawing using a T-square on a board/table before buying a drawing board.

Our pick:

Artway - Acrylic T-Square

Tape measure

When designing, always keep a tape measure on hand. It’s easy to lose track of the actual size of things when drawing to scale, and a tape measure allows you to quickly check and visualise how big something is in real life.

Our pick:

Stanely - Powerlock – 5m

Compasses

Compasses help with drawing circles, typically in pencil. However, attachments exist for technical pens. Even if you’re not designing a curved building, you will need to draw a door swing line. You may be able to draw a suitable curve without a compass, but this tool will make things easier.

Our pick:

‎Staedtler - Mars Comfort Quick-Setting Compass

French curves

French curves are plastic templates that allow you to draw irregular curves, especially if being repeated. Get yourself a set if you start designing curved buildings.

Our pick:

‎Staedtler - Mars French Curve Drawing Template Set

Protractors

Protractors are semicircular plastic templates for curves and measuring angles. You may already have a small version; however, a larger one can be better for architectural drawing.

Cutting tools

Scalpel and blades

Of all the different makes and models of cutting knives we have tested over the years, none is better than the scalpel—specifically, the Swann-Morton №3 scalpel handle with a 10A blade.

Scalpels are primarily designed for medical use but have been widely adopted by designers and makers. They are lightweight, incredibly sharp, and have interchangeable blades that are very cheap—so you can always have a sharp edge to cut with.

When it comes to model-making, most other options fall short. Stanley knives and retractable ‘snap-off’ knives are designed for heavy-duty use on building sites; they are too big and cumbersome for detailed model making.

Other craft knives, such as X-Acto knives, are more appropriate for model making but can often slip in your grip due to the rounded handle, and the replacement blades are more expensive than Swann-Morton blades.

Our pick:

Swann Morton - №3 handle
Swann Morton - №10A blades

A Swann Morton number 3 handle with 10A blade

Cutting mats

The namesake of this organisation, a self-healing cutting mat, is essential when using a scalpel. It protects the table surface from damage and maintains the quality and precision of the cut. Cutting directly on a table surface not only damages the table but also dulls the scalpel blade, which leads to messy cuts and an increased risk of cutting yourself.

A good cutting mat can last for years with proper care. To maintain it, always store the mat flat and avoid using the top surface for glueing, casting, or other messy modelling tasks.

Note: Remember to flip the mat over and use the back for messy work, ensuring the top surface remains clean and smooth.

Our pick:

Amtech A3 Cutting Mat

Scissors

The scissors you already own should be suitable as long as they are sharp. Scissors are great for quickly creating sketch models or organic curves. If you’re buying a new pair, try to go for a smaller size, making cutting details easier. Scissors aren’t an alternative to scalpels; you need both.

Our pick:

Fiskars - Classic Needlework Micro-Tip - 13cm

Glue

For almost all modelling purposes, the best glue to use is a good PVA-based glue. Architecture students sometimes try to use hot glue, UHU, or Gorilla glue, but from experience, these products give messy results.

PVA-based glues:

Don’t require much glue to work well
Dry quickly (when you don’t apply too much)
Don’t make a mess and are easy to wipe away
Dry transparent

We have a complete guide dedicated to other glues for model making.

Our pick:

EVO-STIK - Wood glue - 250ml

‍

Masking tape

Masking tape is essential for producing hand drawings with multiple layers of tracing paper, and it is helpful for various modelling tasks. Unlike Scotch tape or Sellotape, masking tape is low-tack and designed to be peeled off easily and re-stuck as needed.

Cheaper masking tapes may have poor adhesion or can leave residue on your work—they are not worth the savings.

Our pick:

Tesa - Masking tape - 50mx25mm

Paper for architects

Paper varies by weight, known as GSM (grams per square metre), and finish. It’s worth getting to know what different GSM paper feels like; heavier 200GSM+ paper gives the impression of quality. You’ll want a matte finish, as architects rarely prefer gloss.

Presenting on paper is still a standard form of architectural presentation. You may be drawing or using a printer.

Cartridge paper

Typically, a smooth cartridge paper with a little texture is suitable for architectural drawing. For your more refined drawings, get paper over 150GSM. Technical drawings are best drawn on tracing paper.

Our pick:

Seawhite - A3 Cartridge Paper Pad - 140gsm
Seawhite - A2 Cartridge Paper Pad - 220gsm

Tracing paper

Drawing on tracing paper for scale architectural drawings should be your first choice. A smooth finish is best; heavier weights (higher GSM) are typically preferred.

Our pick:

Clairefontaine - A3 Goldline Tracing Paper Pad - 90gsm
Clairefontaine - A2 Goldline Tracing Paper Pad - 112gsm

Detail paper for sketching

A lightweight (low GSM) paper (a bit like tissue paper) that is cheaper than tracing paper and is typically used for temporary sketches rather than finished drawings. Buying it on a roll from Tervakoski is the architect’s choice.

Our pick:

Clairefontaine - A3 Goldline Typo-Detail Pad Transparent - 53gsm
Tervakoski - Detail Paper Roll Transparent - 25gsm

Sketchbooks for architects

Your sketchbook should always be with you. Keep it as a visual journal with more drawings and less text. Consider buying a separate notebook if you write often. Use it for quick sketches, detailed drawings, and diagrams, but not for technical drawings.

For your new sketchbook, we recommend roughly A5 size. It’s the perfect size to take everywhere without being too small. You will likely scan images from your sketchbook, so avoid lined or squared paper and choose a book that folds flat. Remember your GSM; thicker paper (higher GSM) will reduce pen bleed-through.

The most popular choice among architects is Moleskine.

Our pick:

Moleskine - Sketchbook Art Collection Medium or Large